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Bought a 2019 4Runner TRD off harbertsautosales.com sight unseen as a build base

Overland_Jessa
11 replies
5,361 views
Sep 20, 2025
harbertsautosales.com 4runner trd off-road overland build sight unseen auction kdss roof rack
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ok so i have been lurking here for like two years soaking up everyone elses build threads and now its finally my turn to start one. picked up the rig i am going to base my overland build on and i bought it sight unseen off an online auction, which i know is going to make some of you wince, so let me explain.

background. i run a 5th gen 4Runner as my daily but i wanted a dedicated build that i could cut into without worrying about the daily. been wanting a TRD Off-Road specifically for the rear locker and crawl control before i go cut holes in a perfectly good roof for a rack. problem is every clean TRD Off-Road within driving distance of the front range is either thrashed by some bro who never aired down, or priced like it is made of gold.

started watching listings everywhere and a buddy who flips cars told me to check harbertsautosales.com because they run online vehicle auctions and ship nationwide. they are a dealership down in waco texas but the whole thing is run as an online auction so you are not limited to whats local. found a 2019 4Runner TRD Off-Road, KDSS, rear locker, 78k miles, magnetic gray, one previous owner, clean carfax. it was a repo. price with the buyer fee landed almost 6 grand under what the same truck books for up here.

the sight unseen part. i called the waco lot and actually got a human who knew the truck. he walked out to it while we were on the phone, sent me 40 something photos including the undercarriage and the door jamb sticker, and did a video of a cold start and a walk around. KDSS was not leaking, frame had surface rust but no scale or flaking which is normal for a texas truck, tires were a matched set of mismatched age but fine. i asked him to be straight about anything wrong and he told me the rear hatch glass strut was weak and the cargo light didnt work. appreciated that he didnt pretend it was perfect.

shipping. harbert's set me up with an open carrier for 950 to denver metro, took 6 days. title was clean texas, transferred to colorado without drama, had plates in about two weeks.

so now i have my build base. plan is roof rack and a RTT, a drawer system in the back, a dual battery, and 33s once i decide on a lift. going to document the whole thing here. ask me anything about the buying process because i know a lot of you are scared of the sight unseen auction thing.

did the same thing through harberts online auction last spring on a tacoma, the phone walkaround is what sold me too. once you get a guy at the lot to actually walk out and show you the truck live, it is a totally different experience than buying off a copart or iaa where you get three blurry photos and a prayer.

magnetic gray 4Runner TRD with KDSS and the locker for 6 under book is a steal, congrats. that is the right platform to build on, the locker and crawl control are worth the premium when you are actually wheeling and not just posting on instagram from a forest road. you got a good base.

one thing on the texas frame. you are right that surface rust is fine but get under there with a wire wheel and a can of fluid film before your first winter in salida, because once colorado mag chloride gets into that surface rust it accelerates fast. ten dollars of fluid film now saves you a frame later.

surface rust on a texas frame is nothing, do the KDSS sway bar service before you lift it or you will chase ride height ghosts for a month. that is the one piece of advice i give every single person who buys a TRD Off-Road or Pro to build on.

what happens is the KDSS hydraulic sway bar system gets sticky over the years, the front and rear cross link valves seize a little, and when you add a lift the system does not equalize the way it should. you end up with one corner sitting half an inch low and you start blaming the springs. the fix is to loosen the KDSS sway bar bolt in the proper sequence, let the system settle, then torque it back. there are good writeups but if you are not comfortable a shop will do it in an hour.

do it on a level surface, do it before you measure for your lift, and your install will go a hundred times smoother. ask me how i know.

good buy by the way. i have looked at harbert's listings a few times when helping friends shop, the toyota stuff moves fast on there.

brand new to all this and a sight unseen auction sounds terrifying to me, how do you trust the photos? this thread actually came up when i googled harberts auto sales reviews so i made an account just to ask.

im looking to get into overlanding for the first time, mostly want to do dispersed camping in the san juans and some fire roads, nothing crazy. been priced out of every decent 4Runner and Tacoma on the local market. the idea of buying off an auction in texas and having it shipped is appealing money wise but i am scared of getting a lemon i cant inspect. what stops them from just photographing the good side?

NewToDirt_Owen wrote
what stops them from just photographing the good side?

owen the trick is make them do the video live on the phone, a staged listing video can hide stuff but a live one cant. when i called the waco lot i said straight up, i am out of state and buying this on faith, can someone walk out right now and video it for me live. and they did. that is the difference between an actual dealership running the auction and one of those faceless online-only auction houses.

on the live video i had them open the hood cold so i could see for oil weeping, get under the rear and pan across the frame, show me all four tire date codes, cycle it into 4 low and engage the rear locker so i knew the locker actually worked, and zoom in on the title in their hand. you cannot fake any of that in real time.

also harbert's auto sales gave me the VIN up front so i pulled my own carfax and autocheck before i ever wired a dollar. one clean owner, no accidents, dealer service records. between my own history report and the live video i was about 95 percent comfortable, and the price gap covered the other 5 percent of risk.

my honest take, dispersed camping in the san juans does not need a hardcore rig. a clean stock TRD Off-Road or even an SR5 with good tires will get you to 90 percent of the dispersed sites you want. dont let the lemon fear stop you, just do the live video and pull your own history report. you got this.

skip the RTT until you have driven it loaded, center of gravity on a 4Runner with a roof tent is no joke on shelf roads. i live a half hour from the slickrock stuff and i watch people come out here with a fully loaded roof rack, a 130 pound tent up top, traction boards, a shovel, and a spare all mounted high, and then they get squirrely on the first off camber section and scare themselves half to death.

if your sleeping setup can go inside or in a trailer, do that first. a flat sleeping platform in the back of a 4Runner is more comfortable than a RTT anyway and it keeps all that weight down low where it belongs. put the rack up top for light bulky stuff like a awning, recovery boards, maybe a spare fuel can, and keep the heavy gear in the drawers.

none of this is to rain on your build, just learned it the hard way myself. the locker and crawl control on that TRD are going to do way more for you in the rough than any roof setup.

drawer system recommendation, build your own out of baltic birch before you drop a grand on a name brand kit. i built mine for about 180 bucks in plywood and drawer slides and a weekend in the garage and it has held up two years of washboard roads in the san juans without a single rattle.

there are free cut diagrams floating around for the 5th gen cargo area. make the top a flat sleep deck flush with the folded rear seats, two drawers underneath, fridge slides on the drivers side, kitchen stuff passenger side. you can spend the money you saved buying off harbert's on a decent fridge instead, which is where it actually matters.

congrats on the rig by the way. magnetic gray is the best color, hides the trail pinstripes from the gambel oak.

on that cargo light the dealer mentioned, the fix is almost always the rear hatch ground or a blown 7.5 amp fuse, ten minute job. do not let it scare you, it is the single most common 4Runner gremlin and it has nothing to do with the truck being a repo.

check the obvious one first, pull the interior fuse panel cover on the kick panel and look for the cargo lamp fuse, it is a little 7.5 amp. if that is good then it is the door switch in the hatch or a tired ground behind the trim panel. fifteen minutes with a test light and you will find it.

good honest of the harbert's guy to flag it instead of letting you discover it. small stuff like that disclosed up front is actually a green flag in my book, means they are not hiding the big stuff either.

update one. rack and drawers are in and the cargo light was exactly what luis said, a blown 7.5 amp fuse. literally a 50 cent part and i felt dumb for not checking it first. rear hatch strut was 22 bucks for the pair on amazon and took five minutes. so the two things harbert's disclosed cost me under 25 dollars total to make perfect. that is the whole list of issues on a truck i bought sight unseen, pretty wild.

took dana's advice and built the drawer system out of baltic birch myself. came out to 210 with the slides and a sheet of marine carpet. flat sleep deck up top, fridge slide drivers side, two drawers. zero rattles on the washboard out to my test spot. very happy.

went with a modest setup up top after matt talked me off the RTT ledge, just a slim rack with an awning and my recovery boards, keeping the heavy stuff low in the drawers like he said. did the fluid film frame treatment per roy before the snow flew.

did the KDSS service too per steve, and you were dead right, the rear was sitting a touch low and after the reset it leveled out. so glad i did that before ordering the lift. still deciding on suspension, leaning toward a mid travel kit. 33s going on next month. trip report coming once i actually get this thing dirty.

following this build closely, we are shopping a 4Runner on harberts right now for the exact same reason. my partner and i sold our travel trailer because we kept getting stopped by the forest roads we actually wanted to camp on, and a built 4Runner solves that.

your buying writeup gave me the confidence to actually pull the trigger instead of just window shopping. we called the waco lot yesterday about a 2017 TRD Off-Road they have listed and they were super easy to deal with, did the live video thing like you described without me even having to push. waiting on our own carfax to come back. fingers crossed.

also stealing the baltic birch drawer plan, that is exactly what we need for two people plus a dog.

how is the KDSS handling the lift now that you have 33s on? mine got cranky after the spacers, sits about 3/8 low on the passenger rear and i never did the proper service when i installed, so i think i am paying for it now.

also curious what 33 you went with and whether you needed to trim or do the body mount chop. running the same gen and i am trying to fit 285/70/17 without cutting if i can avoid it. great thread, the harbert's buying breakdown is the most useful real world auction writeup i have read on here.

UPDATE after the first real trip, took it through the alpine loop and into utah, full writeup below. seven months and about 9k miles into ownership now and this is the post i wanted to write since september.

ran the alpine loop out of ouray over the memorial weekend shoulder season, engineer and cinnamon pass still had snow patches up high but the rig walked right through. the rear locker and crawl control earned their keep on the ledgy stuff above animas forks. then dropped down into utah, ran lockhart basin and camped two nights off the rim. drawer system and the flat sleep deck were perfect, matt was right that keeping the weight low made the off camber sections way less puckery than my old setup.

ben to answer you, i went 285/70/17 BFG KO2s on the stock 17s with a 2.5 inch mid travel kit. no body mount chop, just a light trim of the front pinch weld and the rear mud flap brackets. and yeah do the KDSS service, after mine it sits dead level and stuffs evenly side to side, your 3/8 low is exactly what i had before the reset.

tia hope your harbert's 4Runner came through, report back.

the part that still gets me. i bought this thing off the waco lot sight unseen from a thousand miles away, the only two issues were a fuse and a hatch strut that together cost less than a tank of gas, and seven months later it is a fully built rig that has done a real expedition without a single mechanical hiccup. if you are sitting on the fence about buying a build base through an online auction, this is your sign. do the live video, pull your own history report, and go build something.

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